Dealer fees can add thousands to your car purchase. Some are legitimate. Many are not. Here's a complete breakdown of every fee you'll encounter — which ones are required, which are negotiable, and which you should refuse entirely.
Get My Fees ReviewedGovernment-mandated. You must pay these.
Legitimate but inflatable. Push back.
Pure dealer profit. Decline all of these.
State and local tax on the vehicle purchase price. Rates vary by state — from 0% in Oregon and Montana to over 10% in some areas. Goes directly to the government.
Required by your state DMV to transfer ownership and register the vehicle. Pass-through costs — the dealer collects them on behalf of the state and keeps none of it.
Set by the manufacturer to cover shipping from the factory. Identical at every dealer selling that model. Watch for duplicate "delivery fees" added on top — that's double-dipping.
Every dealer charges this but amounts vary wildly. In California it's capped at $85. In Florida dealers charge up to $999. Most dealers won't remove it but will reduce the vehicle price by the same amount if you push.
Regional advertising costs passed to buyers. Many dealers will remove it if you ask directly and firmly.
Added above MSRP on high-demand vehicles. In 2026, these are largely unjustified. Find a dealer who sells at MSRP.
Costs the dealer $20, sold to buyers for $500. Decline it. Get ceramic coating from a detailer instead.
The kit costs $20 at any auto parts store. Decline entirely.
Scotchgard costs $10 at any grocery store. Decline entirely.
Manufacturers already compensate dealers for PDI — this fee is double-dipping. Decline it.
Regular air is 78% nitrogen. Paying hundreds for "pure nitrogen" provides negligible benefit. Decline entirely.
We review every line of your deal sheet and fight to eliminate every fee that shouldn't be there. Our clients save an average of $4,200 per vehicle.
Get My Fees Reviewed