The buyer's order is the most important document in any car purchase — and the most confusing. Here's exactly what every line means, what to check, and what to refuse before you sign.
Have Us Review Your DealThe buyer's order — also called a purchase agreement or deal sheet — is the contract that lists every element of your vehicle purchase: the vehicle price, all fees, trade-in value, financing terms, add-ons, and the total amount you'll pay.
It's intentionally complex. The more confusing it is, the harder it is to spot problems. Here's how to read every section.
Year, Make, Model, Trim: Verify this exactly matches the vehicle you negotiated. Wrong trim = wrong price.
VIN Number: Cross-reference with the actual vehicle. Make sure you're buying the specific car you inspected.
Odometer Reading: Should match the vehicle's actual mileage. Any discrepancy is a red flag.
Sale Price: This must match exactly what was agreed during negotiation. Even $50 off can indicate a problem elsewhere.
Market Adjustment: Any line called "market adjustment," "ADM," or "dealer markup" above MSRP should be refused. Walk away if they won't remove it.
Rebates / Incentives: Any manufacturer cash back should appear as a reduction. Verify all incentives you qualified for are applied.
Documentation Fee: Legitimate but check the amount against your state average. Should match what was disclosed upfront.
Title & Registration: Required state fees — verify the amount matches your state's actual DMV charges.
Dealer Prep / Processing: Refuse this. It's double-dipping since manufacturers already pay dealers for pre-delivery inspection.
Advertising Fee: Ask to have this removed. Most dealers will if you push back firmly.
Paint Protection / Sealant: Decline. Worth $20 at cost, sold for $500.
Fabric Protection: Decline. Scotchgard costs $10.
VIN Etching: Decline. The kit is available at any auto parts store for $20.
Extended Warranty: Only consider if priced competitively and from the manufacturer. Third-party warranties are often not worth the cost.
GAP Insurance: Can be worthwhile if you put less than 20% down and have a long loan term — but buy it from your insurance company, not the dealer. Dealer GAP is almost always overpriced.
Trade-In Value: Verify this matches the amount agreed during trade-in negotiation. Dealers sometimes quietly reduce trade value after the fact.
Payoff Amount: If you owe money on your trade, verify the payoff amount is accurate and applied correctly.
APR / Interest Rate: Verify this matches exactly what was agreed. Even 0.5% higher on a $35,000 loan costs over $500 in extra interest.
Loan Term: Verify the number of months matches what was agreed. Never let a dealer extend your term without your explicit approval.
Total Amount Financed: This should equal the vehicle price + fees − down payment − trade-in. Calculate it yourself and verify it matches.
Take as long as you need to review every line. Ask about anything you don't understand. If a dealer pressures you to sign quickly, that's a red flag — not a reason to hurry.
Send us your deal sheet before you sign. We review every line, flag every problem, and tell you exactly what to do — saving you hundreds or thousands before you drive off the lot.
Have Us Review Your Deal